Vinous - Score: 94 (2018 March)

This amalgam of November 30th and December 5th pickings is at once confectionary in its evocation of candied lemon peel, glazed apricot, quince preserves and vanilla as well as electrically bright thanks to fresh lemon juice and prickly pineapple core. An almost ominously smoky cast on the nose persists on the palate, but there is no volatility, and the wine’s high acids are ultimately well-buffered by glycerol richness and sheer palate density. No taster will be left in any doubt that this embryonically backward elixir is of the frozen Riesling genre. It finishes with phenomenal persistence, albeit not the interactive complexity or the savory, mineral and floral dimensions of which Riesling from this great site is so memorably capable, but which may well emerge with time in bottle. (This wine was not offered at auction, but instead as part of the estate’s non-auction offerings to private customers and the trade.)